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Building decorative windmills: a step-by-step algorithm


Converting wind energy to electricity (especially in rural areas that are famous for their blowing winds) will save you money. And the invention that will help to do this is an ordinary windmill.

In order to bring it to life, it is necessary to study the structure of a windmill and identify a list of those materials that will be needed for construction.

How to build a do-it-yourself windmill

So, the main parts of the windmill.

Base - I am the basis of a windmill. This is her strongest and heaviest element. It is usually made of concrete. If the mill is supposed to be one and a half meters high, the base is supposed to be 45 square meters. cm and weighing around 36 kg.

Mill Tower.

The tower is made of a durable piece of a 5-8 cm plastic pipe (PVC). Other materials are also used, but they are not so effective. The height of the tower, as we agreed, should be one and a half meters.


The blades of the mill are similar to those in the propeller of the aircraft. Wind energy knives are made of lightweight plastic or wood. The dimensions of the blades correspond to the size of the base and turret. For a mill and a half meters, the blades are approximately 0.9 m long.


The basis of the wind gondola is the gearbox. With its help, the blades are connected to the tower and after that they can function normally.

After we became aware of all the parameters of the base, tower, gondola, it is time for the construction of a windmill.

Solar panels.

Solar panels are installed on the roof in a place where it receives the maximum amount of sunlight, and where it is most open.

Now install the tower.

It should reach the maximum amount of wind. Therefore, its location should also be chosen so that the wind on the way to the tower does not meet any obstacles.

A gondola is attached to the tower. Check if the blades are large enough to react to and catch the wind.

Connecting a generator is the final step in construction. We connect together solar panels and generator wires.

“You tried harnessing the wind to make it work for you!” After all, wind energy is one of the cheapest and easily accessible! I do not propose building windmills, as they did in the old days, or a complex modern wind turbine. But to build a wind turbine to generate electricity, albeit small, low-power, I think every family living in the countryside, every school can.

The energy generated by the wind turbine is enough to turn on the pump for watering the vegetable garden or garden to illuminate the house or class. And if at least every fifth house has its own free mini-wind farm, imagine how many saved kilowatt hours will go into the "energy bank" of our country! "

Together with dad Seryozha is going to build such a wind farm near his house this summer. In a letter, he sent sketches of his future installation. We showed them to engineer Vyacheslav Nikolaevich Shumeev, he carefully studied the sketches, finalized them and now offers them to the readers.

Seryozha Kurnev used a well-known wind turbine scheme with a self-rotating drum.

The device consists of two halves of a hollow cylinder, which, after cutting it, are moved apart from the common axis (see Fig.).

The resulting body had a pronounced aerodynamic asymmetry. The flow of air running across its axis seemed to slide off the convex side of one half-cylinder. But the other, facing the wind with a kind of pocket, showed considerable resistance. The drum turned, the half-cylinders swapped faster and faster, and the spinner thus unwound quickly.

This principle, perhaps without knowing it, was taken by Seryozha Kurnev as the basis of his future wind farm.

Such a scheme compares favorably with a wind turbine with a propeller turntable. Firstly, it does not require great precision in the manufacture and gives a wide selection of materials used. Secondly, it is compact.

Judge for yourself. The power of the generator, driven by a drum with a diameter of only about a meter, will be the same as when using a three-blade propeller with a diameter of 2.5 m! And if the propeller pinwheel needs to be installed on a high bar or on the roof of the house (this is required by safety measures), then the pinwheel-drum can be placed directly on the ground, under a canopy. The drum also has a number of advantages: high torque at low speeds (which means that you can do without a gearbox at all, or use the simplest single-stage gear), and the absence of a brush current collector mechanism.

Serezha offers a two-bladed drum, but we recommend increasing the number of blades to four (Fig. 1B). The traction characteristics of such an installation will improve significantly.

So, let's start with making a drum. The blades can be made of plywood, roofing iron, duralumin sheet or plastic sheet of suitable sizes. In any case, try to avoid excessively thick workpieces - the rotor should be light. This will reduce friction in the bearings, which means that the drum will be easier to unwind in the wind.

1 - resistor
2 - winding of the stator of the generator,
3 - generator rotor,
4 - voltage regulator,
5 - reverse current relay,
6 - ammeter,
7 - battery
8 - fuse,
9 - switch.

If you use roofing iron, strengthen the vertical edges of the blades by placing a metal bar with a diameter of 5-6 mm under the flanging. If you decide to make the parts of the turntable from plywood (its thickness should be 5-6 mm), do not forget to soak the blanks with hot drying oil. The cheeks of the drum can be made of wood, plastic or light metal. When collecting the drum, do not forget to smear the joints with thick oil paint.

The crosses connecting the individual blades into the rotor are best welded or riveted from steel strips with a cross section of 5 × 60 mm. You can use wood: the thickness of the workpiece is at least 25 mm, width - 80 mm.

The axis for the turntable is easiest to make from a two-meter section of a steel pipe with an external diameter of about 30 mm. Before choosing a workpiece for the axis, find two ball bearings, preferably new ones.

Having coordinated the dimensions of the pipe and bearings, you will save yourself from the unnecessary work of fitting the pipe to the inner race of bearings. Steel crosses of the rotor are welded to the axis, wooden ones are fastened with epoxy glue and steel pins with a diameter of 5-6 mm passing simultaneously through each crosspiece and pipe. Mount the blades on the M12 bolts. Carefully check the distances from the blades to the axis: they should be the same - 140-150 mm. After collecting the drum, again coat the joints of the parts with a thick oil paint.

The main element of the installation is ready, it remains to make the frame by welding or riveting it from a metal corner (the wooden version is also suitable). Install ball bearings on the finished bed. Make sure that there is no skew, otherwise the rotor will not be able to rotate easily. Double-coat all installation details with oil paint, fix a set of pulleys of various diameters on the lower end of the axis. Connect the belt thrown over the pinwheel pulley to an electric current generator, such as a car. A constructed model of a wind power installation at a wind speed of 9-10 m / s will be able to provide power transmitted to the generator equal to 800 watts.

Well, if there is calm weather or the wind is too weak to get the necessary electricity? There will be no interruptions in the generation of electricity if you use an energy storage device - a battery. There is wind - let electricity go directly to the consumer, there is no wind - turn on batteries charged from the wind turbine. In Figure 3, we showed a schematic diagram of the electrical circuit of such a wind turbine.

If the windmill will be used to water the garden or orchard, it must be mounted directly above the water source.

And now the task. Think, guys, how to adapt the wind turbine that we talked about for geologists, climbers, mobile repair and construction crews, for shepherds on distant pastures.

UT 1983 No. 5, V. SHUMEEV, engineer, Drawings by A. MATROSOV

Wind turbine

the proposed design allows to increase the wind efficiency of the wind turbine by almost 3.2 times in comparison with the classical one and bring it to a value of 0.65-0.75.

New opportunities for using wind energy

Using a new method of controlling the operation of a wind power installation and its design will increase the efficiency of the turbine wheel due to a more complete return of its energy by air flows, increase the area of ​​capture of the front of air flows from 2 to 10 times, reduce the size of the turbine wheel and increase its frequency of rotation, reduce dynamic loading designs as a result of reducing the mass and dimensions of rotating parts by several times, reduce the capital costs of the production and installation of energy power units in industry and the private sector. published by

P.S. And remember, just changing our consciousness - together we change the world! © econet

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A bit of history

A true windmill is an aerodynamic mechanism that converts wind energy. Due to this energy, she performs mechanical work - grinding grain.

Mention of wind structures began in ancient times. Therefore, it can be assumed that for a long time wind and water mills were the only machines used by mankind.

Traditional horizontal rotor mill

Historians believe that ancient mills were common in Babylon. This is evidenced by the code of King Hammurabi, which dates from about 1750 BC.

The documented evidence of the use of wind machines for grinding grains dates back to the first century AD, and it belongs to the Greek inventor Heron of Alexandria. It is also known that in the ninth century there were Persian mills, as Muslim geographers wrote in their messages.

Persian mills differed from the usual European designs with a vertical axis of rotation and perpendicularly mounted blades. They had blades on the rotor, and on one side were covered by a shell. Without this sheath, wind pressure on all blades would be the same.

The vertical axis of rotation was also a Chinese mill. It differed from Persian sails with freely rotating sails, while in Persian mills the sail was rigidly fixed on the axis.

Illustration of a Chinese windmill

Thus, constructions with a vertical arrangement of the rotor are characteristic of Asia. But a windmill with a horizontal rotor is common in Europe.

Classical mills are especially widespread in windy lowland regions. In addition, they were built on the Mediterranean coast.

In our country, they were mainly distributed until the beginning of the 20th century, however, already in the 19th century, with the advent of steam engines, their number began to decline. True, these mills have not been completely abandoned to this day.

Well, for us, summer residents, windmills are just a beautiful element of landscape design, which, moreover, symbolizes wealth and prosperity in the family.

Mill making

Now consider how to make a mill with your own hands. This procedure can be divided into several stages:

As you can see, one of the stages of work is the manufacture of movable vertical elements. Next, we will consider how to make the design so that the roof and the axis of rotation rotate in the direction of the wind.

If desired, it is possible to make the whole structure rotate towards the wind according to the principle of a weather vane. But, if you want to simplify the product on the contrary, make it motionless.

Preparation of drawings

Since the mill in our case is a decorative element, there are no strict rules for its design. The main thing is to decide for yourself what structure you want to see, and what dimensions it will be.

A sketch of a decorative mill can even be done by hand

To simplify the task, you can use ready-made drawings, and if necessary, only correct them. Moreover, it is not necessary to accurately draw the structure to scale. The main thing is to depict its main elements and indicate the dimensions, which will simplify the work in the future.

Manufacture base

In the design of the windmill, which I offer you, there is a base on the legs in the form of a curbstone. It is made as follows:

ArtworkDescription of Actions

  • Boards. Section approximately 20x300 mm,
  • Lining. For cladding
  • Sewer pipes with bells. Will be used as legs.
  • Whetstones. The cross section must be such that the bars fit into the sockets.
Making the base (skirt):

  • Make a square from the boards. The dimensions of one side are about 50 cm,
  • You can immediately sheathe the structure with lining.

During the manufacture of the base, make sure that the diagonals of the base are the same.

Making legs:

  • Cut the bars. Their length should be 300 mm plus the depth of the socket,
  • Insert the bars into the socket and fix them with screws.

If you know how to work with metal, you can use metal corners or profiled pipes as legs.

Installation of legs. Fasten the legs to the skirt with bolts or screws.
Covering the base. Sheathe the top of the base with planks, plywood or other material.
Railing Installation:

  • Make handrails from the bars. You can use the same bars of which the legs are made,
  • Attach rails to the bars that will serve as racks,
  • Fix the resulting railing on the base with screws, as shown in the photo.

Fabrication of the frame of the middle and upper part of the structure

So, the foundation is ready. Next, a do-it-yourself windmill is done as follows:


  • Wooden slats. The cross section should be approximately 20x30 mm,
    • Metal rod or pipewith external thread (axis). Diameter is about 1-1.5 cm,
  • Bearings. The inner diameter should correspond to the diameter of the axis.
The manufacture of the frame of the middle part:

  • From the slats, make two squares with sides of 35 cm and 25 cm,
  • Connect the resulting frames with racks from the same rails to make a truncated quadrangular pyramid.
The manufacture of the roof frame. Windmills in Russia usually had a gable roof.

In our case, it should be rotary, so we perform it as follows:

  • Make two triangles of racks (roof trusses). Sizes can be arbitrary as you wish.
  • From the top, connect the roof trusses with a rail, which will serve as a miniature ridge run, and from the bottom with three boards. Position the boards so that the middle board is centered,
  • In the center of the middle board, make a hole for the axis,
  • Insert a threaded metal rod and secure it with nuts and washers. As a result, the axle must be rigidly attached to the roof.
Installation of bearings in boards. In order for our windmill to have a pivoting roof, we need to fix the axis on the bearings.

To do this, you must first fix the bearings in the boards:

  • Prepare the boards with which the upper end of the mill frame will be sheathed,
  • In the center of the board, drill a hole equal to the outer diameter of the bearing,
  • Cut along the board through the center of the hole,
  • Insert the bearing,
  • Drill through holes in the edge of the board on both sides of the bearing, and tighten the board with studs. Due to this, the bearing will be firmly fixed in the board.

In the same way, you need to insert the bearing into the board, which will fix the axis in the lower part of the frame.

Roof Mount:

  • Fasten the bearing boards to the frame. At the same time, correctly position them so that the bearings are located on the axis of the frame,
  • Insert the axle attached to the roof into the bearings and secure it with nuts and washers.

Now the roof can rotate freely around its axis.

Shank making. To our wooden mill, or rather its roof, turned like a weather vane to meet the wind, you need to make a shank as follows:

  • Prepare a rail that will serve as the axis of the shank, about 40 cm long,
  • Attach the bar to the top to make a T-piece,
  • Make two trapezes from the rails and fix on the axis, as shown in the photo,
  • Attach the shank in the center of one of the ends of the roof.

The shank can immediately be sheathed with any sheet material.

The manufacture of blades and horizontal moving parts

Now you need to make a horizontal moving part and blades:

Materials At this stage, we will need the same materials as in the manufacture of the roof.
Installation of a horizontal moving part:

  • Mount the bearings in two boards as described above,
  • Mount the bearing boards on the roof as shown in the photo,
  • Insert the horizontal axis into the bearings, and secure it with nuts and washers,
Making a cross. At the base of the blades a cross is used. Ее легко сделать из четырех брусков.

In the center of the cross, make a hole for the axis.

Blade manufacturing:

  • To make a blade, you need to fix the rails on the bar at a small angle. The length of the rails should decrease towards the axis of rotation,
  • According to this principle, make all four blades,
  • Fasten the blades to the crosspiece,
  • Put the cross on the blades on the axle and secure with nuts.

On this, the most difficult part of the work is completed.

Now there is the final stage - the finish. It depends on how the decorative mill will look. The essence of this work is the cladding of the frame with clapboard.

At the same time, you can decorate the structure with windows, doors and other elements that your fantasy will tell you. The sheathed mill can be painted and varnished.

You can decorate the product with decorative windows and other elements

Often, windmills are painted in a folk style. If you want the design to look in the traditional Russian style, it is better to sheathe it with a block house, rather than a lining. The mill decorated with carvings looks especially beautiful.

Diodes and a light sensor can be integrated inside the mill. As a result, with the onset of darkness, light will light up in the windows of the mill. The average price of a sensor is about 300 rubles.

Here, in fact, is all the information on how to make a windmill with your own hands.

Now you know how to make decorative windmills with your own hands. Additionally, watch the video in this article. If you don’t understand some points, ask questions in the comments and I will be happy to answer.

What is a windmill?

Buildings available on the garden or cottage, are usually created in a simple functional style. As a rule, they do not have any specific decorative elements and look according to their purpose. At the same time, the desire to somehow decorate, revitalize the site is common to most owners. There are a lot of options for solving this issue. Most often, landscape design technologies are used, with the help of which absolutely any piece of land can be decorated.

One of the options for creating an unusual look is windmill erection. The solution is somewhat unexpected, but invariably effective, requiring detailed consideration.

Device and principle of operation

A windmill is a device that converts wind energy into a milling mechanism. This is the traditional purpose of the mills that performed almost the only job - grinding grain, making flour. The blades (wings) of the mill received a wind flow on their planes and began to rotate. It was transmitted to the millstones, which milled grain and produced flour. The device of a windmill is a prototype of wind generators, pumps and other mechanisms of today, using wind flows as a source of energy.

At present, one can rarely find a working windmill, mainly they are kept in ethnographic reserves as exhibits. At the same time, they are quite serviceable and can do their job quite effectively.

Decorative element or practical structure?

It is impossible to use a windmill as a full-fledged structure that performs grinding of flour. Firstly, the size of such a structure is not suitable for relatively small areas. In addition, the need for grinding grain is not currently available. therefore windmills erected on garden plots play a decorative role. At the same time, a rotating rotor, if it is able to perform its functions, may well be used for various household needs:

  • power generation,
  • actuating a water pump,
  • the case of the windmill can be adapted to store various equipment.

The choice of how to use the windmill is the prerogative of the owner of the site, but the most common purpose of such structures is to decorate the site, adding folklore motifs to the design style. This point cannot be considered secondary or unimportant, since the appearance also needs a competent and creative approach, as well as practical application.

What might you need?

In this case, the key point is the independent manufacture of the structure. In addition to the specific practical goals that are pursued when creating a windmill, a creative approach is important, the ability to make efforts for self-design site.

It is possible to apply such a structure in different ways, for example, using a windmill, you can decorate a water well. Often similar structures cover the exit to the surface of sewer collectors. The use of a wind turbine for its intended purpose is not excluded - with the aim of driving mechanisms or generating electric current, for example, to illuminate a site.

Important! The decoration of the territory is an important factor in itself, but if it is possible to practically use a windmill for household needs, its value increases many times.

Another possible use of such an element can be called a place for children's games. The kids enjoy playing in various houses, and if it is stylized as a mill, it becomes even more interesting.

The choice of territory for installation

The choice of place is affected, first of all, by the owner’s intention, the purpose of the structure. If purely decorative use is planned, then the mill is placed on the basis of picturesque considerations, an external effect, that is, in an open area that provides a good overview of the structure. If the device is functional, then the choice will be affected by the level of the site, the absence of nearby large buildings that can close the blades from wind flows.

In addition, it is necessary to take into account the location of utilities, buildings or structures that can be affected by the rotating wings of the mill. If they are opposite the window, the constant flickering in the eyes will create a significant inconvenience for people in the room.

It should also be borne in mind that the construction will need to have a normal approach, especially if it is planned to make it an element of the playground. Given all these considerations, the choice of the optimal place for the construction of the mill is made.

Step-by-step instruction

Making a mill occurs according to the usual scheme used in the construction of any structures:

  • project creation (working drawing)
  • acquisition of materials, selection of tools
  • site preparation
  • housing and rotor assembly
  • installation of mechanical elements (if they are planned)
  • start-up, debugging of operating modes

Some steps in this list may be redundant, sometimes, on the contrary, additional actions may be required. The final action plan can only be drawn up when considering a specific design, its working conditions, dimensions and other parameters.

Important! In no case should you neglect the creation of the project. Often, it is at this stage that significant errors or additional factors are detected that fundamentally change the approach to the work performed. Making at random can be a waste of time and materials.

Necessary materials and tools

For creating a decorative windmill it is best to use traditional materials:

In addition, depending on the size and purpose of the mill, materials may be needed to create the foundation:

  • cement,
  • sand,
  • reinforcing bar.

It is equally important to have the necessary tools:

  • power saw
  • electric planer
  • hacksaw
  • chisel, chisel,
  • pliers
  • hammer,
  • electric drill with a set of drills,
  • ruler, tape measure.

Depending on the construction project, other tools or devices may be involved, if necessary.

The first steps to be taken at the initial stage are the preparation of the site for construction. If the structure is planned to be large enough, for example, under the mill it is necessary to decorate the storage for tools, equipment, engineering devices, then a foundation device will be required.

The easiest way to fill the foundation is to create a tape type of foundation. To do this, a moat is dug around the perimeter of future walls, into which a formwork is installed, a reinforcing cage is knitted and concrete is poured. The foundation is maintained at the right time for sufficient crystallization of concrete, after which further work can be carried out.

Note: for small decorative structures, a foundation is not required, just raise them a little above ground level to prevent contact with groundwater.

After the completion of the foundation, they begin to create a windmill body.

Choose the type of wall and roof

The construction of the walls and the roof of the mill is carried out in strict accordance with the working drawings made in advance at the very beginning. Different options are possible:

  • construction of walls from turned logs. It is carried out when creating a large mill designed to perform certain economic functions.
  • the erection of walls from timber. This method is somewhat simpler, as fitting the beam is much simpler than logs. The size of the mill is also quite large.
  • creating a frame with subsequent plating. Such construction is suitable for a smaller mill.

The options considered include the construction of the facility directly on the spot. There may be options when the entire structure is assembled in one place, for example, in a garage or in a workshop, and installed already ready for the intended place. This approach can be used to create small decorative mills that can be transported within the site.

The construction of the walls is completed with the beginning of the creation of the roof. Traditionally, a two- or four-slope construction is made. As a roofing material, one of the old, traditional roofing coatings is used - tiles, shingles, etc.

Wood is a material unstable to atmospheric moisture and rain. The finished structure must be protected from water by applying a layer of varnish or drying oil. The best option would be pre-impregnation with antiseptic and flame retardant to protect the walls from insects or fire.

Features of the construction of a functional mill

If the windmill will do useful work, then it is arranged in a rather complicated way. The design consists of a rotating rotor transmitting movement to a generator, from which the received voltage is transmitted to the battery and inverter. This is the most complicated scheme for connecting a wind generator, there may be options and easier. But they are all united by one sign: the rotor shaft is connected to a specific mechanism.

This circumstance forces us to approach the construction from the other side:

  • the working mechanism is mounted first,
  • walls or a protective box are built around it with the ability to access equipment for repair or maintenance.

In such situations, construction is carried out so that the walls and the roof of the mill do not interfere with the rotation of the wings or do not block access to the mechanics. The rest of the work is carried out in a similar way using the same materials and tools.

Installation of a wind generator

Installation of a windmill is necessary in those cases when it was made in the workshop. Typically, such structures are small and quite accessible for transportation within the site. This option is good for repair, modernization or maintenance. The ability to perform work in a normal workshop, rather than in the open air, offers many advantages and provides high quality repair or care.

The mill is installed on a dry prepared site. If necessary, the device is attached to it using anchors. If the structure is horizontal and cannot be installed in the wind, then care should be taken in advance to choose a location that allows you to use the prevailing flow direction for a given region.

Mounting the platform (bottom)

1. We begin the installation of the lower part with the construction of a square frame from a wooden beam or a wide board. The approximate size of the square is 60x60 cm. The thickness of the board must be taken at least 2 cm, the width is 15-20 cm. The so-called “lining” (facing board) is well suited for our purposes.

As the main building material, you can use shovel cuttings, we do something similar to a mini-log house

It is important to consider: Make sure that the platform does not skew. To do this, use a tape measure and check the distance diagonally.

If you are planning a place for a decorative mill on land or grass, be prepared to get the wood wet and the problems that arise from it. For greater mobility and durability, we offer to attach four legs to our base.

2. An interesting idea is the legs for the platform of the mill from PVC pipes. The diameter of the pipe is chosen arbitrarily. Suitable PVC water pipe. Take three identical segments (approximately 20 cm.). Now we need four beams, which in diameter will fit tightly into the pipe. The bars with pipe segments are fastened with screws.

Wooden bars easily attach to the inner corners of the platform.

As the main material for the construction of the mill, you can also use a 20 mm lining, and the remains of PVC pipes will go as legs

An important point: All legs should be the same length from the ground to the beginning of the platform. To check, use the level.

3. We close the lower part of the mill with boards from above. We nail them with nails or self-tapping screws, carefully fitting the board to the board. It should be a design in the form of a stool or pedestal.

A little trick: Drill a few holes in the base area (10-15 pcs.). This will help in the future to drain water after rain and ventilate the entire structure from the inside.

Fabrication of the frame (middle part)

For the mill frame, you will need four wooden meter timber, and four timber for the base and top of the structure. The size of the base is 40x40 cm. The top should be smaller, approximately 25x25 cm. Everything should be assembled in the form of a pyramid and fastened with self-tapping screws.

The construction of the middle part of the mill is the main point, it is he who sets the tone for the whole structure

As a rule, the middle part of a decorative mill is decorated with windows, doors or balconies

We fix the pyramid of the mill to the base with bolts and nuts. As a result, the design will turn out to be collapsible, and it will be convenient to store it in the winter.

Roof (top)

Finish the building of our mill will give a hat in the form of a roof. The cap will consist of two isosceles triangles (30 x 30 x 35 cm) connected by wooden bars (60 cm) from above, and three wide boards to the bases.

Making a decorative mill yourself is not difficult. All options are based on the same principle: we make the base, the middle part and the roof with blades

For structural stability, it is necessary to fasten the roof and the frame base with a vertical axis, which will be pressed into two bearings. Due to this, the roof will rotate freely.

Mounting the vertical and horizontal axis

For the axes, take a metal rod - a stud with a diameter of 14 mm, a length of 1.5 m.

In the middle of the central board of the roof base and the lower part of the frame, a vertical axis will be fixed with a thread along the length of the frame (about 1 m.). From above and below on the central board the axis will be fixed with a nut and washer.

The horizontal axis (approximately 40 cm) should pass above the center of the vertical with a similar mount. We also draw the axis through two boards with bearings and fix with nuts. We fix the boards to the base of the cap with an edge and cut it under its shape. An axis pierces the roof parallel to the ramp. The blades will be fixed on it.

Note: Bearing must be mounted in the center of the board. This is possible with clamping bolts passing through the width of the board and tightening the hole for the bearing.

It's time to make a steering wheel for the wings of the mill to catch the direction of the wind. We build a sail-wheel from two wooden trapezoid (4 boards), a central axis and a board between the bases.

The sail can be beaten with galvanized sheet or plastic. We fix the steering axis on the roof base with a self-tapping screw, on the back of the propeller.

Such a cute mill can be built if you follow our instructions, which we have described in this article.

Getting to the skin of the frame and roof

Here the same lining will be useful. Sheathe the frame with vertically arranged boards. For decor, structures can be cut into the walls of windows and doors. We cover the roof with galvanized sheet metal or iron, and on the sides with a lining.

And the last important thing that completes our design is the pinwheel. The wings of the mill should not be too heavy. We’ll start making the blades by taking two wooden boards 2 cm thick. 1.5 m long, 5 cm wide. They should be folded crosswise and fastened together, after cutting out the grooves at the intersection that should fit into each other. The joint is tightened with bolts. We got a wooden “+”.

We’ll fill wooden horizontal planks on each blade so that each wing resembles a trapezoid in shape. Пропеллер готов, сажаем его нашу горизонтальную ось уже привычным способом. После завершения монтажа крыши с лопастями и рулем, лишнюю часть оси следует обрезать.

Формы, размеры, внешний вид — все это зависит от вашей фантазии и от того, какой строительный материал вы будете использовать

Tip: For greater stability and ease of rotation of the upper part, a metal platform with stiffeners can be planted on a vertical axis over the middle part. This will prevent the roof from tilting toward the tail or wings.

Our mill is ready! Now it can be coated with paint or varnished. The multi-colored mill looks pretty fun and the kids will really like it. The lacquered design looks more solid and more real.

One of the original ideas to complement the decorative mill for your garden will be the installation of lighting. It is possible to adapt several bulbs inside the structure (near windows and doors) and bring electricity to them. Now in the evening your mill can serve not only as an excellent decorative element, but also as a light source!

We are sure that you will find a worthy place for this incredibly beautiful little thing! Do-it-yourself decorative windmill, just like a real one, will decorate your summer house or garden plot. One can imagine that little elves live in it and with their magic gratefully help you in country affairs. And if your seriousness does not allow you to dream, just enjoy the new decor element and accept the admiring glances of your neighbors in the country!

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DIY materials and tools for making a decorative mill

  • Particleboard or Thick Plywood Remains
  • Wooden lining (we used class C euro lining - it is cheaper.

It took 10 pcs. 1.5 meters long.).

  • Thin slats (we used a 20x40mm rail).
  • Layouts (thin wooden slats) - blades are made of them.
  • Wooden corners (needed in order to hide and ennoble all joints).
  • Hardware (screws and small nails).
  • Wood varnish (we used alkyd quick-drying).
  • Long bolt, two washers and 5 nuts.
  • DIY process for making a garden mill

    You need to start with the manufacture of the base.

    To do this, 2 squares are cut out of plywood or chipboard using a jigsaw. One with a side of 40cm, the other - 30cm. This size can be changed at your discretion. After the blanks are cut, you need to find the centers of the squares (the intersection of the diagonals) and drill holes there.

    The next step will be the assembly of the frame of our garden crafts.

    To do this, cut the rail 50-60 cm long. The length of the rail is the height of the lower trapezoidal part of the mill. You can choose your height - it doesn’t matter. We fasten two square billets using self-tapping screws through the holes prepared in the previous step.

    The rail is auxiliary in nature, with it it will be easier to assemble the main frame. When the frame is assembled, the rail can be removed. We assemble the frame itself, for this we install rails cut in size in advance at the four corners of our workpiece. Fasten with screws. After everything is done, remove the auxiliary rail.

    We have got the frame of the lower part of the mill.

    Now let's get to the top. From fiberboard or plywood, cut 2 equilateral triangles. Choose the height and length of the sides as you wish. We fasten the triangles together using pieces of rails and screws. I recommend not immediately screwing the upper part to the lower part - it will be more convenient to make the clapboard lining.

    The photo shows what should happen in the end.

    We turn to the decoration of the mill figures with a wooden lining. However, there is nothing complicated here - cut off the workpiece of the required length from the lining, install it in place, drill holes for screws and fasten.

    Do not run if the corners will not turn out perfectly smooth - then everything will be covered with wooden corners.

    After the lining of the lower part is finished, you can attach the upper triangular part to the screws and proceed with its lining (just wait with the roof). I recommend placing the lining when plating the top vertically - this will look better. After finishing, you can cut out the makeshift door and window using a jigsaw, and then proceed with the installation of the base for attaching the blades.

    Now set the axis for the blades.

    To do this, drill a hole in the upper part and install a long bolt, without forgetting to put 2 washers. Fix with a nut. The axis is ready. Now the roof of the garden mill can be sewn up, and you can also attach corners at the joints of the cladding and grind the work with sandpaper.

    The last stage is the manufacture and installation of the blades.

    The blades can be made of wooden laths layouts. Moreover, their appearance can be absolutely arbitrary - it all depends on the imagination and skill of the master. You can fix the layouts with each other with the help of small cloves - this is quite enough.

    At the intersection of the blades, drill a hole under the axis and install the blades on the axis, fixing the structure on both sides with a pair of nuts (nut + lock nut). It remains to cover the craft with varnish and a decorative mill, made by yourself, is ready! You can install on the garden and enjoy.

    Do-it-yourself decorative mill in the country (work completed)

    Samizdat magazine: [Register] [Find] [Ratings] [Discussions] [New] [Reviews] [Help] Dear friends! I know that many fellow samizdat residents, and not only, are interested in do-it-yourself summer cottages.

    This is evidenced by statistics and comments left on the page, as well as letters that I receive regularly by e-mail. I decided to start a new project - to mold a decorative mill from the old material left over from previous works.

    Let her hostess stand and make happy at the cottage, all the more, her anniversary is approaching. I studied a lot of all kinds of different crafts, both in reality and on the Internet. Based on the knowledge gained, he developed a project, submitted it for approval, received the go-ahead and am now in thought. The thing is that, when starting work, I want to see it in my head distinctly and clearly, in order to exclude any doubts.

    Rebuild along the way (change the decision) - not in the rules of a military man. I thought - maybe someone will prompt, advise, help with knowledge of the matter. I will try to publish pictures and talk about what has been done right here, inside this essay.

    In the meantime, I can only imagine the drawing approved by my wife. At the cottage, conditions with the Internet are limited, however, I can read the text without pictures, which means I will see tips and suggestions.

    How to make a DIY decorative garden mill

    It is interesting to know the opinion on the following points: - dimensions, - blades, - doors and windows, - platforms with fencing, - spinning - not spinning (blades, tower), - backlighting, - coating, etc.

    To date, a metal rod (stud) with a diameter of 14 mm has been purchased. and 1 m long for the axis (s) on which the blades will rotate (I hope), perhaps a tower (but not a fact). Waiting for your advice. Sincerely, A. Rublev July 31, 2013

    Friends, the project is completed.

    Urrrrrrrrrrrrraaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa! P.S. And the artist’s thought continued to work on. I bought a solar panel with a flashlight and a light sensor.

    I mounted everything and got what I wanted - with the onset of twilight the sensor is triggered and my mill starts to glow with all its windows. The picture shows the same solar battery, the charge of which is enough until almost dawn. P.S.-2. There is no limit to perfection. Craving for experiments prevailed and I took up the brush.

    what an artist without it. In a word, I repainted my mill. I really hope that it didn’t work very well. P.S.-3. Repainting, I realized that I was missing something in the appearance of the mill. The tank symbolizes my attitude to this remarkable type of troops - according to the first two military formations (tank military school and VA BTV) I am a tanker.

    But the time has come and the service profile has changed (after VAGSh). I wanted to capture this profile somehow in this work of art. I haven’t come up with anything better than how to draw arrows on the tail that indicate the directions of strikes of an operational-strategic scale. It seemed to me that the find was quite successful, since this was what the last 15 years of its service did.

    Well, and calmed down on this, of course. Now the work is completed.

    How to make your own wind with your own hands

    Most often, windmills are used to grind flour. Windmills and watermills have been the only machines people can use for a very long time. Therefore, they were used to process various materials, such as grinding and pumping (plumbing) stations.

    In the 19th century, steam engines began to develop, and windmills moved to the background. The Classic, most often regarded as a kind of windmill, has a horizontal rotor and elongated quadrangular wings.

    Such mills can be found in Europe, in the northern wind regions, on the Mediterranean coast. Probably around 1750 BC. N. No. The first windmill appeared in Babylon. The mechanism required a wind. Since 1180, windmills with horizontal rotor orientation are already known in southeastern England, Normandy and Flanders.

    In the 13th century, the formation of mills appeared in the Roman Empire, where the entire building could turn into wind. Such mills were used before the advent of special electric motors, which occurred in the 19th century.

    Posted: 06.09.2011 | views: 5729