A panoramic layout is a way to create much wider fields of view than your lens and camera can provide. Hugin is an advanced publicly available program that allows you to automate the "stitching" of panoramic photos, built on the Panorama Tools project. Although it may not be easy to use as alternatives, the basics of creating panoramic photos are relatively simple. A little practice, and you will take photos, and "stitch" panoramas in the blink of an eye.
Method 1 Taking Pictures
- 1 Consider lowering the quality settings on your camera. Remember that your final image can be many times larger in all dimensions than a normal photo taken with your camera. Unless you need to print photos of huge sizes (and / or you have unlimited processor power, disk space and memory), you should not set the highest quality of the picture that is possible on your camera (although you can not use large JPEG compression if it is possible).
- 2 Set the manual white balance. Many cameras (including the old Canon D30, used to take photographs for this article) do not block their automatic white balance between frames, and are not able to do this even when using AE lock (see below). Your camera may decide to change the white balance for different parts of the panorama, therefore, in the end you will get several photos with a very different white balance, which will take a lot of time and nerves to fix using software.
therefore not use auto mode for white balance. Read the instructions for using your camera in order to understand how to do it yourself, on some devices this is in the “shooting mode” sections - view settings. Of course, you should not worry about this if you are shooting on tape. (Of course, you can shoot in raw format, and set the white balance when you convert to another, more acceptable format.)
To preserve the perspective during rotation, which prevents the displacement of nearby objects relative to the background (parallax), the axis of rotation should pass through the entrance pupil of the optics [...], the position of which can be approximately set using visual inspection. When you look at the front of the lens, the entrance pupil is the image of the opening of the diaphragm
Method 2 Stitching Your Photos Using Hugin
- 1 Open the program and click the “Download Images” button. Select the photos you took before this. Click OK and wait.
- 2 If necessary, enter your focus distance and FOV. If you were shooting on a digital camera, and software intervention does not remove EXIF data from your photos, Hugin should determine this automatically, so don’t worry too much about it (in our case, shooting was carried out on a Canon camera equipped with a 29 mm M42 lens with manual focus, so you must enter data manually). Remember to enter your actual focus distance and crop factor of your sensor, rather than the 35 mm equivalent distance (you can easily find this information using a web search). If you are shooting on 35 mm film, just enter your focal length and set the multiplier to 1. Divide 35 by the width of your film in millimeters to get a focal length multiplier for other formats.
- 3 Click Align. The window that appears is the key point generator; it is a tool that finds adjacent points between your shots to match them and connect them properly. After that, a window will appear that will show you a “roughly stitched” version of your photo. (Do not worry about the ugly edges in this window, the “stitching” mechanism will smooth them out later.)
- 4 Check fit. The information “Typical error after optimization ...” may appear in the main window of Hugin. Check the information below immediately. If it says "very good fit" or, perhaps, just "good fit", then you can safely "stitch" your frames and ignore the next three steps.